Mutations – The Many Strange Faces of Hardcore Punk : Sam McPheeters 2020

The last time I wrote about a book, when I covered Arab on Radar memoir Psychiatric Tissues by Jeff Schneider, one of my oldest friends said that he had to read over halfway through the piece before he realized it was a review. This was my fault and this time around I think I’ll drop the review pretense entirely. That doesn’t mean that I won’t be saying anything about what I thought of this book on a qualitative level, as I’d need to deliberately go out of my way to avoid doing so, but rather that I won’t be particularly going out of my way to do so either. All of this exposition might be unnecessary for my longtime readers but on the off chance anybody found this essay expecting a quick summary of the book’s virtues and a mandative statement about whether they should buy it or not this is your quick warning that these aren’t the droids you’re looking for.

I first became aware of this book when I was talking to Dan St. Jacque of Landed about a legendary 1997 show where he set himself on fire and the members of FORCEFIELD used a hose to baste the audience in the exhaust fumes of an idling moped. I wasn’t at this show, my own pilgrimage to Providence and Fort Thunder happened three years later, but I have spent an inordinate amount of time thinking about it. The only other shows I wasn’t at that have received comparable helpings of my mental energy are Woodstock ‘99, Bob Dylan at the 1965 Newport Folk Festival and The Rolling Stones concert at the Altamont Speedway where the Hell’s Angels stabbed an audience member to death – vital myths on a national scale.

There is a video on YouTube of the first ten seconds when Dan runs out on fire but as it doesn’t include him being rapidly extinguished and then doing vocals for the entire Landed set I won’t be embedding it here. I was going to try to write an entire essay about this night but I haven’t succeeded in getting anyone who was in FORCEFIELD at this show to talk to me so I’ll just unload what I have here. If I was as organized as Sam is in Mutations this could have all been a footnote but I’m not so you’ll have to either follow my muddy footprints where they take you or skip ahead.

In my personal headcanon I had built this night up to be an analogue of the murders and church arsons surrounding the early nineties Norwegian Black Metal scene – I assumed that a culture of one-up-manship regarding extreme performances had led to this singular outlier of an evening where the health of performer and audience alike became secondary to the pursuit of spectacle. According to St. Jacques they just really didn’t like the venue, a downtown space called Met Cafe, and were hoping to either get the space shut down or be blacklisted from performing there in the future.

Neither panned out and Landed was back at Met Cafe a few months later but Dan toned things down and only set off a brick of firecrackers in the crotch of his jeans. While the member of FORCEFIELD I did talk to joined some time after this show his answer seems definitive:

…to have to answer questions as a human being went counter to the ‘narrative space’ inhabited by [FORCEFIELD]”

In retrospect I think my attempts to get anyone from the group to talk to me about this show were as unreasonable as knocking on the door of 109 Minna Street when I first moved to the Bay Area and expecting to find one of The Residents. I had already been blessed to receive a direct communique from FORCEFIELD in the form of a VHS of their videos and when I popped it into a Chicago VCR and saw a shrouded figure address the camera in a distorted alien tongue I should have accepted it for the comprehensive and conclusive Artist’s Statement it was.

Anyway Sam had been at the 1997 show, performing in Men’s Recovery Project, and does a much better job couching the events of the night in descriptive language in his book. For this reason St. Jacques sent me an image of the two page spread and as I read onwards to a description of Fort Thunder I had an unexpected reaction and became incongruously territorial over the word “warren”. I have only been seriously writing for two years and this was the first time I had seen another writer use the exact same mildly esoteric word to describe the exact same mildly esoteric thing – in this case the conjoined tunnels that comprise a rabbit colony as metaphor for the chaotic system of interconnected living spaces that made up the backend of Fort Thunder.

You can look me up on Facebook and go spelunking through my last year’s status updates to read the tantrum in real time but I quickly ascertained that Mutations was published two years before my own account and charted a surprisingly accurate shared literary roadmap (Watership Down and The Martian Chronicles) to account for two entirely distinct brains landing on this particular and precise descriptor. Then I sent Sam McPheeters a letter.

Sam is a year and a decade older than me but I am still old enough to remember when physical letters were the primary medium for communicating with people who lived in different cities than you. My first chat room was on a BBS and my first year of college netted me an .edu e-mail address but most of my friends and underground peers held fast to the hand written missive rather than immediately embracing emergent technology. I have to salute Sam for his curmudgeonly insistence on only proffering a physical address to those wishing to contact him as it’s been a long time since I stamped an envelope for a stranger and variety in daily experiences makes for a pleasant lifetime.

I probably wouldn’t have bothered with a letter at all if the only purpose was to share my internal hysterics over the word “warren” but it just so happened there was something else I wanted to ask him about. I’ve written about this before but in 2003 I was on tour with Friends Forever when they played a small festival in the courtyard of the Hollywood ArcLight cinema that was supposed to culminate in a screening of a rare original print of Penelope Spheeris’s Decline of Western Civilization 3. I heard about these things second hand as I spent the set inside the Volkswagen Type 2 operating the lights and smoke machines but apparently one of the Nerf footballs used in the band’s Killball live show struck the SNL fake news comedian Kevin Nealon, angering him, and then the screening was cancelled because some enterprising scamp had stolen the film canisters from the lobby.

Wrangler Brutes, the last of Sam McPheeters’ bands, also played this festival and as none of the people I’m still in contact with from this show remember any additional details I was banking on Sam filling some in. This stemmed from a presumption that he had a comparable obsession with underground music history, a thing I now know to be true from his book, and a similar photographic memory to my own, a thing I now know to be false. Nonetheless he did have something and while the letter was addressed to me personally I imagine he won’t mind me reproducing the following paragraph:

While I was hoping for corroborating details on the Spheeris heist his anecdote is even better and, combined with the bit I already had, makes for a moralist fable about moderately famous actors going to watch a punk history documentary but being unwilling to experience the physical reality of an actual punk show. I got excited when I saw the letters Wrbr, thinking it might be the initials of a radio station that put on the festival, but then I remembered the Mississippi River K-W radio call sign divide and realized it was merely an abbreviation for Wrangler Brutes.

It is exciting to have the exact date but I’ve discovered an odd paradox where underground shows from 1998 to 2001 generally have some form of online footprint but later shows usually do not. Typing “8/16/03 Friends Forever Wrangler Brutes” into Google only turns up this strange FAQ with questions about Quakers, clit piercings and skanking and, in a manner that feels oddly cyclical regarding the history of the written word, the complete text of Beowulf.

If you’ve read my piece on Jeff Schneider’s Psychiatric Tissues you’d know from the introduction that the book ignited in me a strong ambition to take on the task of penning a more cohesive history of turn of the millennium experimental punk or “weird DIY” music. I have to credit Schneider for facilitating this mental breakthrough as even though I’ve spent the last two years thinking about the best way to document this scene and era, it was only after reading his book that I thought of specifically focusing on bands. As long as I’m crediting him I may as well write out some of my other evolving thoughts on his memoir.

After talking to some other members of the Providence, Rhode Island experimental scene I’ve come to realize that the idea of a “townie vs art school” divide is less a concrete reality of that town’s underground and more a specific myopia on the part of Schneider himself. I may as well address another question that arises in the text – Schneider writes of a “feud” between Arab on Radar and Olympia experimental metal band The Need that was kindled by the former band drawing Hitler mustaches on the latter’s tour posters. Now that I’ve spoken to a source close to The Need I know that the offending graffiti was not the iconic fascist facial hair but rather crude representations of penises going into the two female band members’ mouths.

This revelation certainly adds perspective to the passage where Schneider ponders whether the Riot Grrl movement was based on legitimate grievances and the scene was truly sexist or every single female voice in underground music was exaggerating and the scene was not. Considering that he goes with the second option I have to wonder if he deliberately misrepresented the defacing of the posters with a less blatantly misogynist version or his own memory has distorted this detail. I’ve written in other places about the humbling power of confirmation basis to bend and reshape reality and the two conflicting anecdotes could be yet another example of this.

I’ve just started working on my own music history book and I don’t want to jinx it by revealing too many details but it should be relatively safe to list some of the things I won’t be writing about. I’ve been consciously shying away from covering genres that were especially popular in the underground music of the nineties – particularly mathrock, Emo and hardcore. When I saw the title of Sam’s book I assumed it would be a straightforward history of the experimental side of hardcore and take on bands I’d already decided to omit like The Locust, An Albatross and Cerberus Shoal.

To be completely transparent I actually breathed a small sigh of relief with the assumption that someone else was chronicling this side of “weird DIY” music as I thought it would relieve me of any sense of responsibility to do so myself. I also imagined that Mutations would explain all of the new revisionist terms that are being applied to this music like Chain and Egg, Whitebelt and Sasscore. It actually turns out that if something neither resonates with truth or beauty you don’t necessarily have to write about it and as Sam was either unaware of these newer terms or chose not to write about them due to lack of interest my own disinterest is more than adequate cause for me not to write about them myself.

It also seems like my presumption that Mutations would be essential research for my own book turned out to be incorrect and it is less of a cohesive history and more of a collection of related essays. None of this means that I am disappointed in my decision to acquire and read the book and I am grateful for the things it did choose to shine a light on: early hardcore, a historical sampling of more “arty” bands and, most importantly, what it was like to be an older and completely different person than me while interacting with underground music.

Whether this is factually true or not I have always self-identified as a person who “doesn’t care about hardcore”. The detail that my sparse discography of recorded music includes a Youth of Today cover may make the categorization suspect but in my defense I’ve never heard most of the other hardcore bands Sam writes about and the book has only inspired me to listen to Doc Dart’s post-Crucifucks output and Discharge’s Grave New World – the one deemed “unlistenable” by fans of their earlier albums for morphing into hair metal.

The main reason I keep awkwardly referring to Sam McPheeters as Sam even though we don’t really know each other is that when I first moved to Chicago all my hardcore friends would refer to other people in the scene by their last names (McPheeters et al.) as if they were all undercover spies working for the British government and, while I admire this from an aesthetic angle, I can’t seem to feel naturally included in it.

NYHC in particular is a giant blind spot for me and the only group I even ironically listen to is 25 Ta Life – beyond them it all seems like a blur of neon signs in tattoo shop windows, baseball bats, suspenders and older sunburned muscular men with raspy voices. Sam gives a great account of when Born Against, his own NYHC band, debated Sick Of It All on the radio and, as a result, became pariahs in the NYHC scene. The audio document is readily available and I will probably be listening to it before any albums by old guard NYHC bands. (unless Chain of Strength is from New York, I literally don’t know these things)

Not the complete sequence but Murphy’s Law and Agnostic Front are here

I also don’t know if Sick Of It All is in any way related to Murphy’s Law or Agnostic Front but I’ll be telling my own story that tangentially involves these two bands. Matthew Barney, best known as Bjork’s ex-husband for those who don’t follow contemporary art, included both groups in a sequence called The Order from his Cremaster 3 film. The segment shows Barney as a highlander with a smashed in face free climbing up the central ramp of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum and facing five challenges intended to symbolize the five stages of Masonic Initiation.

Murphy’s Law and Agnostic Front perform special songs with Freemasonry themed lyrics in white gloves while Barney completes simple puzzles involving Masonic symbols beneath the feet of moshing fans – also outfitted in white gloves.

I probably just said a bunch of words that are extremely uninteresting to the average NYHC fan but this is the artifact of that music most interesting to me. For a brief period of time I was even financially interested – a mysterious string of consequences had deposited a large cache of The Order promotional DVDs at the Skyline Amvet’s Thrift Store and I bought them all to unload on Amazon and eBay for the going rate of thirty dollars. Not long after LaPorsha and I moved down to Tijuana and while I initially left the stack of DVDs at my mother’s house I soon carried them all over the border so subsequent sales could be dropped in a San Ysidro mailbox without adding a four hour round trip to Spring Valley on public transit.

It was a bizarre time – I was using a strange form of heroin I’ve never seen anywhere else in the world and my only sources of income were selling these obscure art DVDs and moving cartons of duty free USA Gold cigarettes in and out of Mexico for a meager profit of ten dollars a carton. I was also writing songs in Spanish and booking shows for my friends which slightly bolstered my profits when I required every band member and friends in entourage to mule an extra carton for me as we passed back into the States.

If I’m going to be completely exhaustive I did also sell marijuana chocolate chip cookies in Mexico for 50 pesos apiece and a few hard boiled eggs for 10 pesos but the first of those things was the result of accidentally crossing the border with the contraband pastries and the second one was an abject failure. The important part of the story, and one I’ve likely already written about, came when I decided to stop living in Tijuana and had to attempt to carry the Cremaster DVDs back into their country of origin. A Customs and Border Patrol agent, in black gloves this time around, saw the words “PROMOTIONAL – NOT FOR RESALE” emblazoned across the top of each jewel case and, as I didn’t have a believable explanation as to why I had these objects that didn’t include selling them for illegal profits, forced me to leave them sitting on the sidewalk in Mexico.

The most painful part of this story to me has always been that the equivalent of several hundred dollar bills was entirely wasted but for the first time I’m realizing that this conclusion may be unnecessarily pessimistic. On average Mexico is less wasteful than the United States and as a DVD is a well known unit of value any person could have done a short internet search and seen the potential profits in following in my footsteps of international traffic. In a worst case scenario the DVDs may have sat on a blanket at either the Spring Valley or Coahuila Swap Meet until a pair of eyes as informed as mine came along.

Any way there was a plausible bluff I could have potentially used to hang onto them if I’d only thought of it in time: Murphy’s Law and Agnostic Front are underground music bands and I’m the kind of person who looks like I could be in an underground music band. I should have said that I was in one of these groups, listed on the back of the jewel case, and gave the DVDs away in the process of promoting my band. It’s not entirely implausible that a Customs and Border Patrol agent would be a well informed fan of NYHC, and such an agent would have easily called my bluff, but the odds seem much higher that I would have gotten by on a thing called “outgroup homogeneity”.

This is just a fancy way of saying that while someone within the hardcore milieux could instantly tell the difference between a scrawny junkie who screams over a drum machine and a member of a foundational NYHC group, to someone outside the hardcore milieux such categorical differences would not be apparent. I certainly would have failed the most basic of trivia checks – I know the names of no members of either group but if pressed I would probably guess “Sully” which I’m hoping will be slightly amusing to the better informed based on how accurate it is or isn’t.

Anyway the main reason I bring this up is that one of the major themes of Mutations is the concepts of authenticity and ethics as they relate to hardcore but I have no idea how to classify this hypothetical situation in regards to these two values. Clearly it would be a lapse of authenticity for me to present myself as a member of either of these well respected and dues-paying bands but would doing so for the express purpose of deceiving a representative of the United States Government be acceptable? Similarly it would be a lapse in ethics to profiteer off bootleg merchandise that could plausibly divert funds away from the legitimate enterprises of either group but something tells me neither does a brisk trade in Cremaster DVDs.

Somewhere in the footnotes Sam talks about two of his friends being confronted by the members of SS Decontrol for buying bootleg copies of their out of print debut record. If I was confronted by a member of Murphy’s Law or Agnostic Front, and had succeeded in the hypothetical ruse in the previous paragraphs, would I also have some ‘splaining to do? Would pretending to be in either band be preferable to pretending to be in the other one for any plausible reason?

I’d really like to know – the specific morality of small underground scenes is an exciting topic and it’s genuinely disorienting not knowing if this particular hypothetical behavior would be classified as reprehensible, permissible or even admirable. If you are a member of Murphy’s Law or Agnostic Front and have strong opinions on this subject please reach out and let me know. I’ve added lots of details, like the fact that the profits went directly to buying heroin, to make the process as easy and unambiguous as possible.

I’m getting toward the conclusion of this piece so here’s a final thought: it was making me feel morally uncomfortable that I’m not particularly excited by the music of Born Against or Men’s Recovery Project. I’m not a huge hardcore fan so the Born Against thing wasn’t bothering me that much but I did feel especially guilty about MRP as reading about Lightning Bolt in a Load Records promotional insert in an early MRP record was the genesis of my eventual pilgrimage to Fort Thunder.

I know that I don’t consciously choose the music I am or am not excited by but the fact that I am excited by so much music that occupies similar artistic space to Men’s Recovery Project made me feel like I was maliciously doing something to not be excited by it even though I would have no reason to do so and this obviously isn’t the case. Anyway deep in the footnotes about a disastrous crowded Dystopia show at The Smell I somehow missed (I do like Dystopia) I saw one small detail that salved my conscience. Apparently Sam’s wife plays in Amps for Christ.

I only started listening to Amps for Christ this year when my friend Ben Jovi sent me some video links but their music is a thing I’m excited by, have listened to multiple times and plan to listen to again. I’m well aware that none of this makes sense: neither my crisis of conscience nor the fact that I felt relief from it from the thing I felt relief from it from. I don’t even know Sam’s wife’s name.

The only explanation I can think of stinks of disingenuous outgroup homogeneity: I’m weird.

Buy Mutations here

Chicago 2001 : “Number One you punk! Number Two you Jew! Number Three you gay!”

Wow, I really haven’t written anything in a while. I’ve been struggling with this three part piece that isn’t really coming out the way I imagined it and isn’t done yet. It goes into the sort of thing I’ve mostly been avoiding writing about, like sex and relationship stuff, but that isn’t what it’s really about. I think I’m still struggling to understand what it actually is fundamentally about.

I’m sure I’ll finish it and put it up eventually but it’ll probably be a while.

Anyway I decided to just write some more stories about when I worked at this Italian coffee bar called Trattoria Monterotondo. I just read back over some older pieces to see how much I had written about this place already and it turned out to be hardly anything. Sometimes I worry that I’m losing the thread and my earlier pieces had a quality that my new ones lack but then I go back and read some and they’re all full of typos and really short.

It’s fine, everything’s good for something even if that thing is only being thrown in a corner because it isn’t good for anything; if that makes sense. There was a show last night that I helped set up but I got there so late that I only saw the touring band and then had to leave immediately to run errands. I would have felt really bad if it was only sparsely attended but there was a decent crowd and they probably made good gas money so I feel a medium amount of bad.

I hope Ivory Daze made it up to Eugene okay, their van was apparently starting to overheat when it goes up hills and it’s uphill the whole way there and today was really hot. I was reading today about the “Faustian Bargain” where the aerosols from human economic activity actually have a globally cooling effect because they reflect some of the sun’s rays and as soon as we stop creating air pollution it will suddenly get a lot hotter really, really fast.

That sounds perfectly awful but it must be good for something too. Maybe the extreme heat will make it easier to breed lots and lots of insects like crickets in shoeboxes with bits of egg carton in them like you’re supposed to do when you keep small reptiles or amphibians as pets. It’s not like there will be anything else to eat.

Ok, the Trattoria Monterotondo place. I mentioned in the earlier piece that the owner and my boss, Papa Giovanni Moratti, was a giant asshole but I only really talked about him being the fun kind of asshole like refusing to let uppity customers buy his approval with money. To make things really clear he was a racist homophobic antisemitic womanizer shady businessman kind of asshole too.

That part wasn’t always as fun. If you’ve ever seen The Simpsons episode where an old Italian character says he can’t speak Italian but only broken English that was basically the deal with Papa. I’ve taken Linguistics classes now so I have a better grasp of how language fossilization works – basically when a person acquires a new language as an adult they will hit a point where they stop improving and just mispronounce things and forget words that they need to use all the time forever.

Somewhere along the line he must have forgotten how to speak Italian too because sometimes other Italians would come in and try to speak it with him and he obviously couldn’t. Every week I would help him write down a shopping list and he’d always say to write down “silver things” and I’d tell him it’s aluminum foil and the next week he’d say “silver things” again. He told me to go outside and feed the birds in the same way every day:

Go feed your bird your pidge.”

Anyway that’s probably enough of his charming and harmless catch phrases. Here’s another thing he was fond of repeating:

We have three rule here: No Jew. No Black. No Gay.”

Sometimes he would throw something in about how he knew I was Jewish but it was all right because he was teaching me how to be better or some crap like that. I know that sort of thing would probably piss a lot of people off but it’s always been like water off a duck’s back for me. It’s entirely possible that the only reason he hired me in the first place was to get one over on the Jewish owner of the furniture store I’d been working at around the corner.

It is what it is.

Everything about his hole in the wall coffee bar was some kind of flex. He had made a ton of money in the ‘70s and ‘80s with a store down the street that sold cheap Turkish knockoffs of Italian designer goods and now he just wanted to show off, have fun and waste it. When I first started working there the main flex was to make the little patch of sidewalk in front of his shop look as elaborate as possible.

Every day we would drag out a table, some chairs, a few planters, an assortment of statuary and a fully functional stone fountain that we put live goldfish in. They only lived inside a bowl on one of the shelves at night and died a lot because of how much they were constantly moved and handled but he kept buying more. If all of this doesn’t sound preposterous enough the main purpose of this tiny pocket of paradise was to tell 90% of his potential customers that everything was takeout only and they couldn’t sit there and it was “members only”.

I guess it was kind of like the concept of a “spite shop” on Curb Your Enthusiasm except that this spite was directed at the world in general instead of a neighboring business. Not that he didn’t have plenty of spite for a neighboring business. I’ll get to that.

This whole tableaux took us at least an hour to set up every day and another hour to pack back up again and it was heavy and most days nobody was ever allowed to sit there. So one day we are in the midst of either dragging out or packing up the heaviest part, the fountain, and a very Black and very gay man dressed in a speedo and sunglasses comes rollerblading down the sidewalk and does a flawless little twirl in Papa’s face before disappearing around the corner.

Papa wiped the sweat from his forehead with the folded little towel that was always stylishly draped over his shoulder and turns to me and says in a tone of total resignation:

What can you do?”

I don’t think I actually said it but my immediate thought was “I guess you can tell me what you want to do and I can tell you if you can do it or not.” Anyway I think I have a pretty good idea of the sort of thing he wanted to do and thankfully, he couldn’t do it. Now that I think about it that dismissive twirl must have done a pretty good job deflating him – it wasn’t that long afterwards that the fountain disappeared and his new flex turned into flying in gelato from Italy even though it would have been cheaper and smarter to just make it.

One of the statues that we set up everyday was a cement donkey pointed at a nearby business on the corner of Clark Street to “frighten the Marrochini.” It was a fairly successful French Restaurant owned by a pair of brothers from Morocco and I guess donkeys are some kind of negative stereotype for that country in Italy. He would refer to them as “used donkey salesmen” and spread baseless rumors about the cleanliness of their kitchen to his fan club.

At some point he made up a story that they were coming and peeking through his window at night to try to learn how to emulate Italian cuisine. This was especially laughable because nothing in our shop was even made there with the exception of a couple weeks that he did paninis – everything else was brought in from off site. The Moroccan guys always dressed well and made a point of going out of their way to greet Papa with some well curated polite contempt.

I used to chat with one of the waitresses that worked over there because we both wore white belts. It was pretty trendy in the circa 2000 hardcore landscape but I never saw her at Fireside shows or anything. Papa was obsessed with trying to get us to hook up but it wasn’t really like that. Her name was Sonia.

Playing matchmaker was a thing he was actually pretty obsessed with with his fan club of neighborhood yuppie transplants but I can’t think of any instances where it was actually successful. He had me write up a poster for his imaginary dating service at some point with a lot of coded wording about the “right kind of people” – basically trying to say no Jews and everybody had to be white.

Out of the group of much younger women that he was always trying to set up with his male regulars he arbitrarily decided one was “his” and tried to make a move on her. When she was less than receptive to his advances he quickly turned a cold shoulder and stopped talking to her entirely. That night he loudly complained about the situation:

“All God damn bitches! Papa wants to fuck too!”

The whole referring to himself in the third person thing was especially creepy but he didn’t do it too often. He just wasn’t particularly interested in names. The entire time I worked there he never bothered to learn mine – he either called me “boy” or “Tom Croo” because he thought my unibrow made me look the famous actor whose name he would have been pronouncing if he ever bothered with the final “s”.

She did not take getting kicked out of his imaginary club very well. She showed up the next day crying and begged me to tell her how to get back in his good graces – if she could maybe give him some kind of food or flowers. What could I tell her? You could throw away your dignity and pity fuck an old bald man you aren’t attracted to but I wouldn’t. When somebody tells you who they are what can you do but listen?

My own relationship status and his suspicions surrounding my supposed homosexuality became a bit more of a project for him. For the period of time that I worked there I was in an off and on situation with Robyn but she never came by the shop and he didn’t believe she existed. After his attempts to hook me up with Sonia from the restaurant down the block didn’t pan out he started hiring girls in their late teens or early twenties for the express purpose of trying to get them to sleep with me.

It only happened a couple of times but it was incredibly awkward. He was shamelessly transparent about the whole thing so I’d try to warn my new coworkers about the nature of the situation they had just found themselves in. I just remember the second girl seeming incredibly suspicious and thinking that I was making the whole thing up as a ploy to actually get into her pants. When nothing happened after a couple of days he fired her and said she smelled like marijuana.

Now that I’m typing this part up I’m getting flashbacks of Karen Centerfold in Los Angeles who also had a cartoonishly obvious habit of trying to get random girls to fuck me. I’ll have to write more about Karen somewhere else later but I most remember her yelling:

You know what the problem with all you stuck up bitches is? You all want to fuck surfers with big dicks but you won’t do it because you’re too scared!”

Once again I wish I could somehow convey the actual voice. I don’t know what it is about me that all these characters seem to make it a personal crusade to get me laid but even my mother had a similar outlook. When I was about ten years old a family with a daughter close to my age from the commune was staying with us and all the grownups somehow thought it was a good idea to have her sleep in my bed with me.

I wasn’t old enough to get an erection or even know what one was but one of my aunts had just remarried and evidently not been very discreet because the next time I saw my cousin she showed me how to play a game called “honeymoon”. Me and the commune girl went through some of the same motions once all the grownups had gone to sleep.

After that my mom would periodically give me random updates about this girl’s life. Last I heard she became a ballet dancer. Hippy families are weird.

Back to Papa’s spot – it was during the time I worked there that I started injecting heroin and eventually cocaine but Papa took all the evidence of a drug problem and explained it away to himself as a “gay problem”. I would roll in looking haggard after a sleepless night, even taking a final shot in a Port-a-Potty a few blocks down the road, and this would be his response the moment he laid eyes on me:

What’s wrong boy? Partying all night with the happy boys on Broadway?”

His accusation referred to the popular street in Chicago’s Boy’s Town district – coincidentally I had just moved into an apartment there. I wanted to keep my job and figured he wouldn’t take kindly to the actual causes of my current condition so I parroted sarcastic assent:

“You got me Papa, I just can’t resist those gay discos…”

It was around this time that his “private club” started to include a crew of wise guy Italian cops from the neighborhood. They’d hang around the one outside table most nights and he’d give them some food and booze they were perfectly happy to drink on duty. There was a big story in Chicago around that time about a bunch of cocaine mysteriously disappearing from a police evidence locker and for some reason it came up in conversation.

“Yeah! Wanna buy some? Ha ha ha ha!”

Typical Chicago cop humor…

I didn’t live too far away, this was in the Red House near DePaul University era, and I figured it was only a matter of time until one of them recognized me going into Cabrini Greene or something. It either didn’t happen or if they did see me they kept it to themselves. I wouldn’t be surprised if half of them were into the same shit. One night Papa obliviously made the comment:

Isn’t it great boy? All the cops in the neighborhood know your face now!”

Yeah, just wonderful…

I said before that we didn’t make any food there but around that time we were putting together cannolis. This fat cop that the other one’s called Shrek, the first movie had just come out, was always asking me for them:

You want a cannoli huh? How about I bring you the one with a big fat red strawberry on the end? You want me to dip it in chocolate for you?”

We did in fact have cannolis with strawberries on the end that were dipped in chocolate but I was taking advantage of an opportunity to make stupid jokes about sodomizing him and getting him to perform fellatio on me. In my defense it was a reversal of the usual power dynamic where I was constantly getting harassed by different Chicago cops in my other life as an injection drug user. The other cops were happy for any opportunity to make Shrek the butt of a joke and he licked his lips and clowned it up the way submissive abused Chicago cops always seem to.

Papa was very particular about the coffee we’d be willing to make for anybody. We did straight espressos and cappuccinos or macchiatos but if anyone dared to ask for an americano he’d yell at them to “go to Sewerbucks!”. One afternoon somebody must have asked him for some kind of vanilla something because the moment I walked in he was excited for me to make a coffee menu for the window that listed “Café Milanesi Finnochio”

It basically translates to “faggot coffee of Milan”. His big plan was that if anybody else ever asked for some kind of flavored coffee beverage we were supposed to point to this item on the menu and make them order it by name. He even bought some kind of CostCo vanilla cappuccino mix to complete his little joke. It never actually happened.

I’ve covered him being all the different kind of assholes I listed earlier except for the shady businessman one. He had a refrigerator full of cans of Sprite and one day somebody looked at the bottom of a can and noticed it was expired. You’d think he would have just thrown the rest of them away because we had plenty of orange and lemon San Pellegrino but that’s not what he did.

He had me fill a sink with hot water and soak all the cans of soda in it so I could scrub away the expiration dates with steel wool. Soaking the Sprites in scalding water probably did more to mess up the flavor then the expiration part but it mostly seemed pointless because hardly anyone ever asked for it to begin with. He pointed to the printed expiration dates:

Just for decoration anyway…”

It was his little phrase he’d use any time he thought he was being sneaky. He said the exact same thing when he had me write out a paper that said “I am responsible for paying my own tax” because the job was under the table. Maybe he’d gotten caught up in some kind of situation with tax evasion in the past but it was never an issue when I worked there – the cops were in our pocket.

The bigger thing was that he constantly and carelessly lied about the nature of the food he sold and where it had come from:

Everything made fresh today!”

Everything 100% fat free sugar free!”

Neither of these things were true for anything except for maybe a shot of espresso. He would get cookies delivered from some bakery that would sit in the pastry case for weeks until he’d sold them all. Frozen pasta entrees sat in freezers for months. The pizzas and focaccias were delivered on a daily basis so at least the fresh part was true for those.

We’d get diabetics who were excited about the sugar thing and I’d have to wait until he was out of earshot to tell them that of course it wasn’t true and honestly you couldn’t trust a word out of his mouth. With all of these lies it would have made perfect sense for him to be lying about the gelato being flown in from Italy but that part was actually true. I saw the weird frozen customs cases it came in.

Like I said everything with him was a flex. He liked lying about where various things around the shop had come from too.

This was Al Capone’s Espresso Machine!”

“This was Mussolini’s bicycle!”

Really pointless little lies. He’d tell his fan club we had a hot tub on the roof and some of them seemed to believe it.

Besides the Marrochini thing I didn’t see too much of him being racist right to people’s faces but this was probably because the Black folks in the neighborhood had already had bad interactions with him and kept their distance. There is a story on Yelp! about a family realizing that the reason he wouldn’t sell them gelato was because they weren’t white. He didn’t outright turn away nonwhite customers for to go orders when I worked there – he’d just say “your department” and have me wait on them.

Honestly things weren’t too different at the furniture store. Besides Yvonne, who was Black herself, most of my coworkers there would blatantly ignore Black customers and pretend they didn’t exist. In a city like Chicago you would almost say Papa’s candid honesty was refreshing but then there was the thing he yelled at the television during a Michael Jordan interview:

God damn black gorilla! I hate!”

I was getting sloppier from the drugs so eventually he fired me. I forget what specific thing set him off but he shook his finger at me and bellowed in rage:

Number one you punk! Number two you Jew! Number three you gay!”

At least he got two out of three. It was fun while it lasted. I assume he’s probably dead by now.