The Miss Rockaway Armada Part Twelve : “Have fun rolling solo-roid kid!”

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

Part 8 Part 9 Part 10 Part 11

The structure toward the back of The Garden of Bling was usually referred to as a “three story structure” but calling it an elevated bungalow with attached crawl space would probably be more accurate. The largest room was accessed by an ladder. I’ve already written this somewhere else but Alexis had designed this area to be a pirate radio station and because it effectively blocked off Santiago’s sail all the walls were put on hinges and could be opened.

Somewhere on the walls she had drawn a little doodle of how things were supposed to function: it showed an approaching FCC vessel and the Bling sailing away on a sudden gust of wind while incriminating but presumably replaceable transmitting equipment flew into the water through the newly opened walls.

It should go without saying that none of this would have worked in real life. Even if the sail had been designed with all the necessary riggings and whatnot the craft itself was an overladen square that sat low in the water and had no semblance of a nose for cutting a jaunty path through the current. A thing called a “mud sail”, basically an underwater flap for being pulled along by water instead of wind, might have been more effective but it wouldn’t have looked as cool so of course that was out.

I never saw any of the walls propped open to be able to judge how effectively this let the wind pass through. I arrived at the Bling toward the end of Summer and it wasn’t long until the weather took a turn toward stiflingly cold. Finally there wasn’t any pirate radio station stuff up there – we at least had a portable cassette player because we listened to the Woods album At Rear House on repeat but that was the extent of our music broadcasting capabilities.

Unless you count the 800 pound electric organ that sat on the deck directly underneath the cabin. Occasionally Harrison did power it on with either a generator or the deep cycle batteries and play for a little while. When the Bling was still floating on the river this created a fairly striking effect – especially when he played at night and lit a bunch of candles and hurricane lamps.

The same could not be said when the raft became beached and sat at an odd angle on the sand and Harrison stopped playing.

Alexis had decorated the roof of the cabin with what was always referred to as “Lenny Kravitz’s wallpaper”. This was a minor exaggeration – all the wallpaper had come from a small workshop in New Orleans’ 9th Ward that had once created some custom wallpapers for the singer. There was no way to know if any of the pieces on our ceiling had this particular provenance but the aesthetics were a decent fit: swirling designs in pinks and purples with metallic inks.

Like all the decorative woodwork “gingerbread” elements it had been scavenged in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Alexis only found a collection of smaller scraps as opposed to a complete roll so the ceiling was done in small sections bordered by pieces of two by four. The walls were mostly made of windows so it got a ton of natural light. Here’s a picture of the big statement window we had on the back or stern:

On top of this room was what we called the “troll hole” – a claustrophobic crawl space with an arched ceiling. There was nothing in there but some kind of sleeping pad and a bunch of pillows and blankets. Even in the daytime it was too dark in there to see anything so the troll hole had two basic functions: sleep and sex.

We had a little joke that I’m going to need to provide some background for if it’s going to make any sense. The Bling got beached all the time. Eventually this became so severe that it was surrounded by sand and several feet from the water. There’s no de-beaching that; you just need to wait and hope the river rises.

Far less severe were the beachings where one edge was on sand but the other edge was still in the water. Those could definitely be de-beached – we used poles. When the shipping barges passed by they left behind sizable wakes that made this job significantly easier as it rocked the entire raft up and down. We had a specific rallying cry for situations in which we’d found ourselves beached and an especially large wake needed to be taken advantage of:

De-beaching wake!”

You can probably guess where this is going. While the troll hole afforded privacy in the visual sense the act of lovemaking did create tell-tale motions that could easily be felt throughout the vessel but especially between the troll hole and cabin as one’s floor was the other’s ceiling. It became our custom to loudly proclaim the knowledge that people were having sex a few feet away from you by shouting out:

De-beaching wake!”

Most often it was me or Alexis shouting this out while Harrison and Jacki were having sex in the troll hole. I was briefly visited by the woman I’ve been calling Rocky and had occasion to hear the same cry emerging from the troll hole while creating the vibrations in the cabin. Later Brodie finally got back from wherever he’d been for most of the time I was onboard the rafts and he and Alexis received the same treatment.

I don’t remember ever hearing it in the early days when I was with Lisers in a section of the bow she called her writing studio. It’s possible that having all the rafts lashed together in Voltron formation served to dampen and muffle our movements leaving friends sleeping toward the stern none the wiser. We also hadn’t been beached yet, or the Bling hadn’t anyway.

If you’ve ever lived in especially close quarters with friends you know that this kind of thing is an inevitability. You’re going to hear and possibly see each other having sex – not in an erotic voyeuristic kind of way (usually) but in more of a pragmatic “this is the only option and we’re not going to not have sex” kind of way. In that case you probably know how awkward and uncomfortable it can be to lay there in silence and pretend not to notice.

In a way I think the custom of “de-beaching wake!” actually helped to dispel a lot of that tension. It basically serves to say “I’m here and I hear you but fret not. High five and carry on friends!” That’s way too long for general usage but “de-beaching wake!” is probably a bit too niche. It would be cool if there was something universal but nothing comes to mind immediately.

As always it is possible to leave comments here if anyone either has a less specific utterance already in usage within their own social group or ideas for one they feel especially confident about.

It was during one of Rocky’s visits that we found the kitten Night Beaver abandoned on a freeway island. Harrison had been the one to catch her but I carried her close until she was no longer feral and traveled with her before leaving her to live in Chicago with Stephany. She slept with me in the cabin in an old military sniper’s sleeping bag I called my “whistle worm”.

If you remember the line of children’s toys called Glow Worms that is basically what this sleeping bag looked like. It was made of military green quilted fabric and had a hood and sleeves in the upper half but the lower half enveloped the legs in a more traditional kind of sleeping bag bottom. One morning I woke up to find my socks covered in cat shit.

I think what most likely happened was that Night Beaver was sleeping around my stomach area and woke up during the night to relieve herself but wasn’t immediately sure which direction would lead out of the bag. When I had everything zipped up and buttoned the whistle worm fit me about as tightly as a jacket or coveralls and while she could have crawled out through the neck hole there probably wasn’t enough air flow to make it immediately obvious which way that was. She most likely didn’t realize she had picked the wrong direction until she got to my feet and by then it was probably too late for her to hold it while traversing the entire bag in the opposite direction.

It only happened that one time. After that she got really good at climbing up and down the 4 x 4s that propped up the cabin and presumably handled all her business somewhere on shore. We never bothered with a litter box. In an actual house I probably wouldn’t have given a new and recently feral kitten full and unrestricted access to the outdoors so quickly but in this situation I figured that with nothing else around she’d remember where she was being fed.

For the time that we were on the Bling she didn’t even have a bowl – I just fed her directly out of my hand. We had a system where she’d gently bite me to communicate that she wanted more and when she stopped biting I knew that she was full. She was still very small (possibly younger than eight weeks) so it wasn’t a very large amount of food. We both mostly ate different kinds of canned fish and the salmon that comes in pouches.

Now I’m going to talk some more about The Garden of Bling Dive Team. By November the Mississippi River was restrictively cold and because there was a lot of work that had to be done from in the actual water me and Alexis bought used wetsuits to keep warm. I forget how it was decided that I would be a member of the dive team but my height was probably a factor as I was best equipped to retrieve tools that had been dropped in the water.

It’s also possible that when we went to the only seller of used wetsuits in the St. Louis greater metropolitan area the only ones available were an Alexis sized one and a really tall person one.

Our first mission was installing the custom transom for the big outboard motor that would never actually run again but soon after that the entire bottom scraped off so we turned our attention to that. I know I’ve already described all this at least once: no real hull, plywood box full of styrofoam, bowl of cheerios floating upside down, etc. The Kirksville had washed up a short walk down the bank and provided all the plywood and used lumber for these attempted renovations.

The wakes of passing barges that had been so useful for de-beaching and de-beaching adjacent jokes were a liability now. It was already hard trying to drive lag bolts straight up underwater and having both our own bodies and the raft itself bounced up and down in the water only made this harder. My wetsuit at least was a bit tight around the arms and biceps which made any heavy duty tool work even harder still.

I know that Alexis went on to study underwater welding but we’ve lost touch and I couldn’t say whether or not she stuck with it. Man it sure would be crazy if she somehow saw this and we ended up talking again. Good crazy I mean. Jacki too.

Most of the things around the cabin were fancy and elegant and that included a cut crystal brandy snifter that we kept the pharmaceuticals in. By the time I got there this was Adderall and an assortment of benzodiazepines. Me and Alexis got into a work routine where we took Adderall in the mornings and then after a few hours of work we’d strip off the wetsuits and take benzos by a fire. This was especially important for Alexis as she had to work in the panic inducing confines of beneath the raft where there was barely enough room to hold her head above the water.

Even if I’d wanted to do this part I wouldn’t have been able to because of how tall I was. The depth of the water we were working in worked out to where my head usually sat just above the deck if I was standing on the bottom. Anyway if I’m going to be completely transparent about our drug regimen I need to add that most nights ended with copious amounts of caffeine and alcohol by way of Sparks.

I mentioned that we got extremely loaded on this stuff the last time we crossed the river to visit The Sweeps but I didn’t really scratch the surface of how dire the situation truly was. The best description I’ve ever heard of abusing this particular combination came from a scummy older guy who essentially lived in this run down youth hostel I stayed at in Sydney, Australia:

So I’m chugging Red Bull and vodka all night and around three am the Red Bull says ‘Right, I’m going to bed’ and the vodka says [evil voice] ‘I’m staying up!’”

His story ended with him getting the shit kicked out of him for offenses he was mysterious about, barring an assurance that he absolutely deserved it. When we left The Sweeps Alexis was clearly far too drunk to be driving but bounced all over the freeway while laughing uproariously and singing along to T.I.’s Whatever You Like on the radio. By all rights I should have been terrified but I was as far gone as she was and laughed and sang along instead.

We went to whatever the 24 hour diner in St. Louis was at the time. I can’t say if eating improved Alexis’s condition but it didn’t help much with me. When we stepped outside I got severe tunnel vision and attempted to focus on a chain link fence but the diamonds started to shift around and change color from pink to green. I found that I couldn’t walk directly to where our car was parked but somehow walked backward in a large semicircle that ended with my back against the passenger door that I needed to enter.

Miraculously we made it back to the Bling without getting into a serious accident. I can’t remember whose vehicle we were even driving.

It was around this time that me and Alexis were beginning to realize that the Bling had no chance whatsoever of continuing her voyage. Harrison had almost certainly burnt out our new motor by indiscriminately following the advice of whoever floated down the river even when it was to connect the batteries with the polarities reversed. Between the wakes of passing barges and the waterlogged quality of the Bling’s lumber the new bottom pieces were falling off the moment we put them on.

I can’t remember if it had gotten beached again or not.

Anyway we wanted to just burn it. Harrison would not budge from the idea that we would somehow get it going again and couldn’t be brought over to our side. I don’t remember where Jacki was on the issue or Brodie who was most likely back by this point. They probably would have been down to burn it too.

With no sign of anything changing I hid Night Beaver in a small duffel bag full of clothing and took the Megabus back to Chicago in late November or early December. It wasn’t long after that I got the phone call. Harrison had broken his back and somebody, most likely the Department of Homeland Security, had burned The Garden of Bling.

Brodie and Harrison had put on the two wetsuits and jumped from the nearby train bridge into the river. The drop is probably around one hundred feet and most likely more dangerous in a wetsuit as it increases your buoyancy and potentially the impact from the water. Brodie did a basic pencil drop and broke one of his toes and sprained his neck. Harrison attempted a triple back flip and hit the water with his back and broke it.

I wasn’t there at the time so I don’t know all the exact details of how everything went down. Most likely Harrison realized he was incapable of swimming the moment he hit the water and Brodie helped get him to shore or one of the pylons. A helicopter came to transport him to wherever the nearest hospital was. Brodie never actually got seen by any doctors for his injuries but found a neck brace in the garbage of Harrison’s room and put it on.

They were probably replacing the temporary brace from the helicopter ride with a better one once they got to the actual hospital.

Harrison was extremely lucky. I don’t know the flavor of the fractures or what vertebrae numbers they were in but he made a complete recovery with no lasting mobility issues. I couldn’t say if that’s typical or extraordinary for the specific injuries he suffered. I don’t have any concrete evidence that the DHS were the ones that burned our boat but there was exactly one entity coming around and expressing how much they’d like us gone and it was them.

Harrison and Brodie had jumped off the exact bridge that the DHS was worried about us messing with.

I wish I could have seen it burn.

Honestly I wish that we had just set it on fire ourselves and watched it burn together. The Garden of Bling was a beautiful raft and I loved it but the Lower Mississippi is a monster and unless an army of admirers came to carry it away piece by piece there really couldn’t have been a better outcome.

Harrison left town – most likely he went to his mother’s in San Francisco to recuperate. Alexis, Brodie and Jacki hung around St. Louis. Early the next year I took a bus back down there so we could ride trains to New Orleans for Mardi Gras together. Brodie was supposed to ride down with us but had left town for something and we decided we couldn’t wait for him.

This was before his photography work, mostly pictures of our friends riding freight trains, blew up but he’d been going by his early moniker and writing it around: The Polaroid Kidd. Me, Alexis and Jacki left behind a note for him in one of the St. Louis punk houses we’d been using as a temporary base of operations:

Have fun rolling solo-roid kid!

The Miss Rockaway Armada Part Eleven : “One flame for each!”

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

Part 8 Part 9 Part 10

[Photo by Tod Seelie]

Living on a beach in Brooklyn, Illinois got to be isolating once nearly everybody from the project had left and there weren’t any vehicles around. It was a long bike ride to any bridge we were actually allowed to cross over to the Missouri side on. There was a train bridge right next to where we were but me and Alexis got caught by railroad bulls our second or third time using it and had to stop after that because we’d been formally warned that they’d arrest us for trespassing if they saw us on it again.

This was 2007 so although the 9/11 hysteria had died down significantly there was still a Homeland Security watchlist that the bridge was on. We’d occasionally see tanks and other military vehicles being transported across it so the extra strictness did make sense. There was actually a Homeland Security agent who would come around to complain that we weren’t gone yet but under maritime law we were a “vessel in distress” so he couldn’t do anything about it.

That particular law would be a good loophole to exploit if somebody wanted to squat next to any waterway indefinitely but that’s not what we were doing. We unironically were trying to get going down the river as soon as humanly possible. One night the line that connected us to shore was too short and a stark drop in the water level left us drastically beached. This frustrated the Agent even more:

What if somebody came here when you weren’t around and pushed this thing back into the water?”

I guess whatever kind of Agent he was didn’t require any kind of background in engineering. We answered that we would be extremely grateful to that someone were it to happen but considering that the raft and everything on top of it weighed in around three tons we wouldn’t be holding our breath. After a while we stopped seeing him come around.

There was one guy who would sometimes give us rides or lend us his truck but the trade off was he was extremely annoying to be around. He was part of a group that dressed up in period costumes for the Lewis and Clark expedition and gave informative speeches to anyone who would listen. One day he showed me a lean to he had constructed from natural materials a little ways up the bank at an oblique angle to the raft.

The revelation that he spent an unknown number of hours essentially spying on us was one more red flag for his pile but we weren’t in any position to be selective. Sometimes Alexis would convince him to lend her his truck for a few errands and then disappear for most of the day. I’d have to babysit him as he got drunk, constantly asked rhetorical questions about when she’d be back and vaguely hinted at extracting some kind of sexual payment in exchange while being too much of a coward to just come out and say it.

On one of these afternoons a pair of Black fishermen offered me a small sturgeon that they’d caught and either didn’t have use for or was below the legal limit. Sturgeon grow to impressive sizes and always look like they are wearing funny mustaches. To prepare them for consumption you cut off the head and then squeeze the flesh out of the leathery layer of outer skin – it’s white and fatty kind of close to the texture of lobster tail meat.

For the rest of the day the Lewis and Clark guy kept making a point to talk about the fish “our African American friends gave you”. Every time he said those two words it was like they were a mysterious morsel of food that had somehow found it’s way into his mouth and he was trying to make sure he didn’t accidentally swallow it while at the same time trying even harder to disguise the fact that he found it unappetizing in the first place.

That kind of behavior was pretty normal for older white men around the Midwest – unless they were just transparently and unashamedly racist. After the railroad security recorded our IDs he had suggested that we bike into the city proper by taking an absurdly long and circuitous route that carefully avoided anything resembling a Black neighborhood.

We pretended to appreciate the advice but the neighborhood next to a train yard was actually a spot we’d already been coming to to explore an abandoned church. It had the remains of a unique kind of pipe organ where all sounds came out of the square shaped wooden structures that are often called train whistles. We each took a few of the small ones and one or two huge ones for bass tones – I felt kind of bad about stripping it but it was already incomplete and scattered and it seemed unlikely it would ever be repaired.

The other thing inside that church was a cache of treasure left by neighborhood kids who had evidently been pretending that the building was an archaeological tomb. It got pretty elaborate – most of the artifacts had been written on in a special script but they’d made sure to leave a key so we could learn it all belonged to King Shabbogabbo. They didn’t have much costume jewelry so they had covered a bunch of plastic poker chips in aluminum foil to look like coins.

I can’t even make up excuses for taking that stuff. King Shabbogabbo’s Curse is definitely on me and Harrison and we deserve it. That lesson can take a long time to learn – that when you discover something that cool there is more value in leaving it behind for future discoverers than taking it with you.

Besides the beaching situation which we could do relatively little about the most pressing order of business for The Bling was locating a larger outboard motor. Harrison found a redneck good old boy who was selling off a massive 150 HP unit. When we went to his workshop/garage he said that I looked like I have “sticky fingers” – while I pretty much never steal from associates or peers I understand that the fact that I don’t bother to hide my interest while looking at strangers’ stuff can be disconcerting.

When we first showed up he was having trouble getting the thing to start. I don’t know a ton about outboards but him and Harrison got it going with a lot of tinkering and connecting a hose while it was mounted on a transom. It was clearly a bonding moment for the two of them as they exchanged high fives and repeated variations on:

Oh yeah, this baby’s gonna fly!”

Not the first thing that I’d expect a vehicle located on water to do but distinctions didn’t really matter. We’d never even get it started again.

After using Harrison as a pack animal to haul it on board he spray painted it gold and we turned our attentions to the matter of constructing a transom. I’ve written in another piece about our imaginary metal band of the same name and the friendly local who gave us access to his workshop of welders and torches. It’s not in a Rockaway chapter but you can read it here:

Los Angeles 2008 : “You can play all the wrong notes. Just play them on time”

Here’s a few details I left out: the weldy guy lived in a mostly empty former apartment building that had a gigantic but empty beehive in one of the upstairs closets. It reminded me of a Matthew Barney sculpture and you could still catch a tiny drip of honey from the bottom to taste it. He made biodiesel in his garage and one of the byproducts was glycerine.

He told me that he would spread it on the ground in the woods to attract the deer that were the only thing he ate and he probably hunted with a bow. He was warm-hearted, extremely helpful and kind of gave off the vibe of how serial killers are depicted in popular media – everything about him was just a little bit too fastidious and methodical.

Once we had gotten the different scrap metal components of the transom in place we went to mount the motor and accidentally dropped the entire thing into the water which is probably the main reason it didn’t work. As crazy as it is for something designed to operate so close to water to be vulnerable to being fully in it that’s how it was – something designed to operate so close to water was vulnerable to being fully in it.

It probably didn’t help matters that Harrison took the advice of some passing fishermen and tried connecting the battery with the polarities reversed. There was an audible snap and the sound of burning. Whatever wasn’t broken from it’s little dunk got good and fried then.

Alexis stepped up and also found someone online who claimed he could help. He’d be coming by after a regular work day and had a rider of sorts – we needed to have a case of Bud Light waiting. He didn’t look at the motor at all that first night but he did completely change our perspective on fires.

The weather had been turning cold and the beach offered plenty of firewood that we usually burned in a metal barrel on deck. A couple visitors commented on how a fire on board a completely wooden vessel was a recipe for disaster but nothing ever happened. I think the plywood was mostly swollen and saturated from absorbing water by this point.

Our mechanic brought along a friend and they turned their noses up at our dainty barrel and dragged over the entire trunks of several fallen trees. They arranged them into a five pointed star pattern on the beach and got a huge blaze going in the center where they all met. The idea is that you gradually slide the trees inward as more of them burn and from then on that’s exactly what we did.

Most nights the flames grew higher than the towering construction on top of The Bling. We didn’t even have to manually light it again, just stirring the coals and throwing on a couple of smaller pieces in the mornings was enough to get it going again.

The mechanics told us that they were good on a sleeping spot and cuddled up next to their bonfire in matching horse and cowboy pajamas. They had a routine going all night where they were constantly wrestling and calling each other gay before going back to spooning. It reminded me of the sleepovers I used to have with my friend Gabe Saucedo while I was still in High School.

It was pretty cute.

The next morning they were pretty much useless for figuring out anything with our motor. It seemed like the whole mechanic thing was a put on and they just wanted to see our raft, get some free beer and hang out. It was around this time that me and Alexis began to realize The Garden of Bling would never move again and only semi-ironically floated forward the idea of burning it as the only way to get Harrison to accept reality.

We left him to fuss with the clearly broken motor and turned our focus to working on the wooden parts of the body while wearing second hand wetsuits to withstand the river’s increasingly freezing temperatures. There were still some project resources like power tools around but most of them were with The Sweeps across the river.

One night we went over to grab some of them while disgustingly loaded on Sparks. It was still legal to sell alcohol and caffeine in the same beverage and nonstop consumption of both led to this intense tunnel vision I’ve never experienced on anything else. Jacki tagged along with us and was laughing derisively at the modest size of The Sweeps’ campfire. Rather than one roaring flame their pit had a scattering of smaller tongues they were futilely attempting to warm their hands over:

Look at it! One flame for each!”

Next Chapter

The Miss Rockaway Armada Part Eight : “Did they get their dresses dirty?”

Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7

I figured it’s high time I actually finished the story of the junk rafts called The Miss Rockaway Armada and put a nice little bow on the whole thing. It’s been so long since I wrote the earlier chapters that they are way shorter than the kind of pieces I write now and none of them have pictures on them. Maybe I should go back and either add more details to them or lump them together into a smaller number of entries and stick some appropriate photos on them.

You know that thing that people say “a picture is worth a thousand words”? I kind of added both. Compared to my earliest pieces the ones I make now probably have at least a thousand more words and a picture. When I was first starting this project an old friend of mine named Martin Bilben was reading it for me and offering advice and said something along the lines of “every word should be there for a reason”. I think I’ve come around to what’s basically an opposite understanding that to craft the effect I’m shooting for I need to add a lot of words for no reason at all. Tyrant. Cosecant. Quaternary.

It’s not like I’m rambling for it’s own sake. I think it conveys a very specific emotion or something like an emotion when I do it the right way. I couldn’t explain how it works or anything but I pretty much write all these in a single draft and when I read them back it more or less sounds right. I could be wrong – everybody’s mother says they’re handsome if you know what I mean.

Anyway if you haven’t read the earlier Rockaway chapters you could go back and read them now and it would probably only take as long as reading two or three of the new ones. Here’s a link to where it starts to make it really easy:

https://undergroundamerica.home.blog/2022/10/15/on-the-nature-of-junk-rafts/

For whatever reason I didn’t do the thing where I put the year and city in the title but all of this was in 2007 and it was pretty much all in Saint Louis or East Saint Louis except for a couple of days at the very beginning that were in Alton, Illinois. The rafts went way more places than that but I wasn’t there so I don’t have stories from it.

I’m going to pick things back up immediately after the events of chapter three: The First Annual Junk Raft Rodeo. The Coast Guard and a random fisherman were determined to help us tow all the rafts against the river’s current to dock at Cementland. All hell broke loose but miraculously nobody was killed or injured and the rafts ended up more or less back where they started.

You can read about it in more detail in the chapter I just wrote down the name of.

As they were depositing us back on the banks of East Saint Louis everybody was convinced that the first words out of the Coast Guard’s mouths would be that we were crazy and our rafts were a hazard and death trap and we needed to get them the hell out of the river. Before the failed towing attempt the Coast Guards had been showing us videos on their cell phone of a different junk raft one or two Summers earlier colliding with a barge and getting sucked into the river.

That raft was led by a guy named Matteapolis. I was never sure how to spell his name because I’d only heard it and never seen it written down but this guy named Geoff I met at the Black Butte party this year told me how to spell it. I guess I should have guessed it would be exactly like the name of the city except for the “Matt” part.

I wish I had swapped contact info with the Geoff guy because I’d be interested in talking to him so more. I gave him the blog link so maybe he’ll read this and could reach out.

That would be cool.

So anyway if you’ve read the earlier chapters you’ll know the Coast Guards didn’t say any of those things. They were actually excited to keep trying and already had ideas to increase the chances of it being successful. We had been doing all the traveling in Voltron mode, or with all the individual rafts tied together, but they said it was probably the worst setup for towing. It makes sense – a single junk raft already creates a ton of drag so sticking a bunch of them together in roughly the shape of a jigsaw puzzle piece could only make things worse.

The first raft they wanted to try with by itself was the engine raft – to quickly recap it was the best constructed, made out of three parts for a total length of sixty feet and had two Volkswagen Rabbit engines in the back that had been converted to propellers. I had forgotten the names of the engines but I talked to Caryl for a second and found out it was Mortimer and Jenkins. We couldn’t have turned them both on during this second tow because one of them, probably Jenkins, had gotten its propellor shaft bent out of shape during the fiasco of the first attempt.

I don’t think they were far enough apart that only turning on one would cause the raft to go in circles but it probably wasn’t even necessary to turn the remaining one on. There were no problems during the towing of the engine raft whatsoever. I would say that it went off without a hitch but of course it was necessary to hitch the engine raft to the far more powerful Coast Guard vessels.

You know, for towing.

Once the engine raft was securely tied up at Cementland it was time to try to tow up the smaller rafts and the next one in line was The Garden of Bling. This one was sixteen feet long, covered with a three story structure and completely useless mast and sail and was the one I had recently gravitated to as my home vessel. This tow probably failed almost completely due to the Bling’s inferior construction as opposed to our actions as crew members during the tow – considering that none of us had to do anything but sit there while the engine raft was being towed.

At the same time I don’t want to take credit away from us for royally screwing up our responsibilities as crew members while the failed tow was going down because we did that with flying colors.

The entire endeavor had kicked off pretty close to the crack of dawn but between the first disaster, the second success and gearing up for this third attempt it was inching toward evening. I can’t remember what part of the day it was when we started drinking but we were good and drunk. Sparks was the usual beverage for Garden of Bling degeneracy but for whatever reason that wasn’t what we were drinking this time around – it was beer in bottles.

The Coast Guards had given us a walkie talkie so we could communicate with them during the towing process but we kept setting it down and forgetting where we had put it. They were really unhappy about that. Obviously we were all really invested in holding a bottle of beer to drink out of but that still should have left an extra hand for the walkie.

I think what happened was that the bow started to dip under the water and when the deck was getting covered in river water Harrison grabbed a broom to try to push the water back over the edge. He probably set the walkie talkie down somewhere to pick up the broom. When the raft was succumbing to drag and sinking into the water and none of us were picking up the walkie talkie they had given to us to check in during exactly this kind of situation they probably had to radio another Coast Guard vessel to come find out what was going on.

What they found was a crew kind of laughing, being unconcerned about where the walkie talkie was and thinking that pushing water with a broom would make the situation better in any meaningful way – drunk people stuff. If you’ve ever made public servants like Coast Guards or Park Rangers get angry at you by being inappropriately drunk you know the kind of voice – like suddenly serious incredulous authority guy voice.

I remember my exact level of being drunk in the moment as like bright colors and things lurching around but not to the level of feeling motion sick drunk. Sometimes I have dreams where I’m this kind of drunk walking down a street and I fall onto the ground and start sliding forever because in this drunken dream universe there’s no such thing as friction.

In the dream version the fact that I can’t seem to make myself stop moving makes me anxious but in this particular real life situation I wasn’t bothered at all. The situation was probably potentially dangerous and we had just screwed up our only opportunity to get the raft towed to where we needed it to be but if you scroll back up and look at the photo I definitely look I’m having a good time.

Harrison is sitting directly next to me in the center of the photograph. He maybe looks like reality is dawning on him about the severity of the situation and what it means for this particular raft a little bit. He was always the least willing to accept the fact that The Garden of Bling would never get moving again and we’d never make it down to New Orleans like he wanted to.

That’s Nick underneath the neon orange hat. You can’t see his face at all but the angle of his head isn’t exactly expressive of exuberant joy. That’s the thing about photography though – it tells an absolute truth but that truth is limited to the tiny portion of time during which the aperture is open. Maybe a fraction of a second later they looked as happy as I did. Maybe I looked miserable. Who can say?

We pretty much exhausted the good will of the Coast Guards and screwed things up for all of the other rafts that were hoping to get towed up to our promised berth several miles up the river. Or that would make the most sense. If not for the phantom anecdote.

I have this one distinct memory that is nearly impossible to reconcile with the surrounding facts but I know it has to be based on something that actually happened. Once The Garden of Bling tow failed and the Coast Guard said they weren’t going to help us anymore and any raft that wanted to keep moving had to prove it could safely navigate the Lower Mississippi nearly everybody abandoned the project and started dismantling their rafts.

We were going to try to keep going on The Garden of Bling even though we were stuck away from Cementland back in East Saint Louis. And then there was another crew that was going to try to keep going too. I nicknamed them The Chimney Sweeps, often shortened to The Sweeps, and the name basically stuck and they started using it.

The name had its origins in my friend Josh from Oakland telling me that his housemate Vanessa had made a statement about needing to stop dating guys that looked like chimney sweeps. It basically referred to the mid 2000’s New Orleans adjacent train rider fashion of wearing a lot of striped socks, button on suspenders and just dark colored old timey sort of clothes. And then if you were traveling all of this stuff would usually get really dirty too.

The Sweeps were led by a girl named Brandi Gump. She had originally been connected to The Garden of Bling and had even built a part of it, a small taxidermy museum on the second story, but it got cut off with a Sawzall when it made the raft float lopsided. There was also this shifting relationship thing where she’d been dating someone on The Bling and now that person was dating someone else.

I don’t really need to say who these people were – if you know all these people you already know. That was pretty much a hallmark of The Rockaway anyway – there were some couples like Caryl and Nick that stayed together for the length of the project and probably before it and long afterwards and even to this day as far as I know, but it was much more common for these things to be in flux.

Brandi wasn’t around when I first showed up but she got back to the boats and started putting a crew together. It was her, this really nice girl named Josie that kind of gave house mom vibes and a kind of scrappy feral girl named Rocket that had already been on a famous raft before with someone named Poppa Neutrino that you can look up.

Then it was Corey Vinegar, Soup and eventually Tim from Cementland. Tim worked for Bob Cassily and was pretty much a mainstream vaguely wiggerish dude until the day John Patzius had him operate a backhoe to help pull the furthest aft section of the engine raft out of the river. After that he hung around the rafts as much as possible and at some point him and Brandi started dating and he changed his name to Tim Treason and adopted the chimney sweep fashion all of his crew mates were into.

The phantom anecdote was that at some point I heard that the Coast Guard also tried to help The Sweeps tow another raft up to Cementland and also failed. What I can’t figure out is when this would have happened or what raft it would have been. The vessel that The Sweeps ended up trying to retrofit was the galley, or the central portion of the engine raft, and this had already been towed up in the only successful tow of the three part engine raft.

Obviously it wasn’t The Garden of Bling. That leaves The Giraft and The Kirksville. The Giraft had been built on top of an actual commercially produced aluminum pontoon and Charles started dismantling it the moment after the failed Bling tow so that’s out. The Kirksville was built by girls from Kirksville and was designed to be bicycle powered which I don’t think was especially viable and not long after it came untied in the night and washed up on some rocks downstream and we cannibalized different pieces of wood from it to try to do repairs on The Bling when it started to break down.

The Kirksville seems like the best contender for this failed tow but something about it seems unsatisfying to me. Could there be another raft I’ve completely forgotten the existence of? I guess it doesn’t really matter. Here is the phantom anecdote:

I heard that the Coast Guard tried to help The Sweeps tow whatever raft it was up to Cementland and in the course of failing they briefly had to tie it to the side of a coal barge. This wasn’t something I saw first hand. Either in person or over the phone I was repeating this anecdote to Caryl who had most likely already left the project. The only thing keeping this whole thing in my memory is her response:

Did they get their dresses dirty?”

Next Chapter

Los Angeles 2008 : “You can play all the wrong notes. Just play them on time”

[photo credit: Tod Seelie]

The last piece I put up was my hundredth post on here so I wanted to do something special to commemorate one hundred posts. One idea I had was to take an event that someone else I knew had almost as clear a memory of as I did and have them write up their own recollections of the night/show/party whatever and then post both of our recollections together but do it double blind so neither of us could read the other person’s memories before typing up our own.

I still think this is a great idea – if anyone has strong recollections of something I haven’t covered yet and would like to try this give me a shout.

My other idea was to go back and rewrite the introductory piece about going to see The Make-Up in 1999. It might not even be clear to my newer readers that this was the introductory piece but it was the first thing I wrote since BAD FISH several years ago and the device I used to kick off this entire Winter writing project. I was messing with the dates for a bit as a quick hack to put the pieces in the order I wanted but I decided to stop doing that. A friend and mentor whose advice and constructive criticism was instrumental in building both my confidence and momentum at the beginning of this voyage had always said that it was the weakest piece, and it had already gone through a couple of rewrites, so I always figured it would need some adjusting.

When I went back and actually read it again I was struck with how much my voice has evolved and changed over these hundred entries and I found myself mystified and baffled by my earlier overly ornamentative style. Attacking this piece as an editor would feel like I was pulling the legs off of some kind of fragile insect – they say that to write and edit effectively one must “kill your darlings” but as far as I could tell it was already dead. Much like I did with BAD FISH, I opted to leave it pinned to the page as a specimen and curiosity.

I fixed a couple of obvious grammatical errors and adjusted the year but I mostly left it in the form it was originally written in. To measure anything you need a starting point and that piece will serve as origin on the graph of my literary attainment. There is one small detail that needs addressing however – in that piece I made an absurdly empty promise to deliver these various tableaux as a background character. The truth is that I was never a fly on the wall but always a fly in the ointment and the only way to deliver these accounts is the way they happened – with me conspicuously buzzing right in the center of things.

The last bit of business I want to take this moment to deal with is the title – Adventures in the Undiscovered Interior of Underground America. Barkev had introduced me to a book called Adventures in the Unknown Interior of America by a Spaniard named Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca who became stranded on a failed expedition in 1527 and spent the next eight years living and traveling among indigenous groups who, for the most part, had never seen another European.

The book reads a bit like an ethnography, a bit like a travelogue and a bit like a picaresque novel. When I made the decision that I would be writing up my experiences and stories with what I’ve been referring to as Underground America it seemed like the perfect reference and organizing principle. An entire hidden landscape that pulsed beneath the surface but to its architects, initiates and participants the most vital thing in the world. Even in the ‘90s when the term “alternative” was on every music executive’s tongue it lay beneath the trends – the alternative to alternative.

Anyway that’s why I call it that.

With all of that out of the way I’d like to jump right into telling a story. 2007 to 2008 was an absurdly busy year for me. In Winter I was part of the crew that was laboring to get The Garden of Bling river-worthy while most hands were abandoning the Miss Rockaway Armada project and dismantling the other crafts. To deal with the Lower Mississippi we needed a higher power outboard motor but we would also need to attach a larger transom, the part of the boat the motor hangs on, to the disintegrating plywood of the raft to use one.

Luckily we met one of the archetypical junk sculptor welders found in every post-industrial city living off of Cherokee Street in Saint Louis who was happy to help us and let us use all his fancy tools. He was just about meticulous enough to be a serial killer – he only wore jeans and plaid flannels, he only drank Jimmy Buffet Landshark beer and he only ate stews and chilis he’d made with venison he hunted himself and kept in a big rectangular freezer. I’m going to take a wild guess that he probably killed it all during bow season.

Everything we did was fueled by Sparks which was still available in the highly caffeinated version. Me and Alexis had already bought used wetsuits to go into the freezing water and try to replace the plywood bottom that had been scraped off in successive beachings. I might have explained this before but I’ll explain it again: the rafts didn’t have anything like an airtight hull. They floated on pontoons that were essentially plywood boxes stuffed with styrofoam.

With the bottom missing my favorite analogy was a bowl full of cheerios turned upside down in a bathtub. In this analogy just pretend like the cheerios can’t get soggy – their natural buoyancy keeps the bowl afloat and the edges of the bowl keep the cheerios trapped underneath. If the bowl is rocked by waves or wakes a few of the cheerios drift free. The wakes of passing barges were a constant reality on this section of the Mississippi so chunks of styrofoam, the allegorical cheerios in this situation, were starting to fill the water and litter the beach.

We had a name for our efforts to replace the bottom while floating, The Garden of Bling Dive Team, but we didn’t have much progress or material success. We were trying to drive lag bolts into the two inch edges of 2 x 8s but with the lumber completely water logged and the necessity of driving the bolts upward underwater while being rocked by constant wakes we weren’t really getting anywhere. It didn’t help that my wetsuit was too tight in the arms and shoulders.

We did the same naming thing for our efforts to install the transom – we took pictures for an imaginary metal band called Transom. I wrote a song about the fact that I always had to retrieve dropped tools from the water because I had a wetsuit and I was the tallest:

“Why does metal always sink?

Why’s the River fucking stink?

Holy Shit I’m in the drink again!”

By November none of it was working and I decided to take the cat we’d found, Night Beaver, and go back to Chicago. I wasn’t gone long when I heard that Harrison had broken his back doing a triple flip off of the nearby train bridge while wearing a wetsuit. This might sound serious but he pretty much bounced back from it without issue. This is the thing with Harrison – he’s constantly reckless but when it comes time for life altering injuries or serious consequences it slides off him like mercury and lands on the people around him.

Usually women.

Because it was 2007 and we were underneath a major train bridge agents from the Department of Homeland Security were constantly coming by and expressing how much they’d love it if we were gone. The raft was registered however and we qualified as a “vessel in distress” so they couldn’t make us leave. Boat and water law is different from normal law or even weird Mexico and Louisiana law – when I think about it I picture a yellowed scroll with decaying edges and a red wax seal.

Anyway everything’s legal when nobody’s looking. With everybody off the raft at the same time to check on Harrison in the hospital it was easy for somebody to set it on fire. I’m not necessarily saying it was DHS that did it but they did want us to disappear. Scrappers used to come down to that river bank to burn the insulation off of copper wires so the scrapyard would give them a better rate. Maybe they burned the Bling.

Alexis and I used to talk about burning it ourselves once we realized that it wasn’t going to be earning the Coast Guard’s approval for safe navigation or making it down the river. I was mainly upset that somebody had beaten us to it.

So 2008 came around. I was probably in Chicago for New Year’s Eve. Maybe it was the party at Heaven Gallery or somewhere close to it where I fell and chipped my front tooth on the ice outside. There was a phenomenon at this party we referred to as “Frat-Bro Valhalla”. The way the space was set up there was a special balcony or mezzanine full of frat-bros that seemed to be looking down on the rest of us. I couldn’t figure out how they had gotten to that spot or if it was all the same party or anything else.

I got drunk and fell and chipped my tooth on the ice outside.

I made it down to New Orleans in time for Mardi Gras and then to Miami for the International Noise Conference and a couple months later onto The Bus for the Living Hell tour. Out to California for the Living Hell reunion and then to Australia with my sisters. I played the first two Bleak End at Bernie’s shows in Brisbane and Sydney. Sydney is a beautiful city but freezing cold during Australia’s Winter which happens to be Summer in the United States.

The skies are full of sulfur crested cockatoos in the daytime and flying foxes at night. The girl I call Leg had asked me to bring her back a cockatoo feather. After watching a fairly awful modernized production of Don Giovanni at the Sydney Opera House, it featured playboy bunnies and simulated fellatio, I spent the rest of the night walking the Botanical Gardens. At dawn I found it – a perfect white feather with just a trace of bright banana yellow along its edge.

It seemed too important to entrust to International Mail and Leg had moved up to Portland. It was getting harder to use the counterfeit Greyhound passes. I’m not sure if they changed something in their computers or the station agents were just catching on to us but it was getting to a point where the stations in big cities would turn me away and I’d have to try all the little satellite stations until one worked.

I stopped trying to use them in 2008. I’m sure a lot of people threw in the towel even earlier and some must have dragged it on even longer. It feels unlikely but I’d love to hear that somebody is making it work in 2023.

Anyway I accidentally got ahead of myself a little bit because I thought that the quick West Coast tour with counterfeit Greyhound passes happened when I came back from Australia but I checked a date and it would have had to have been before.

I bought my Boss Dr. Groove drum machine from Rand in Chicago at the end of the bus tour – I used to joke that it used to have a bit of a drinking problem because it would have drinks spilled on it and get knocked off of tables every time Carpet of Sexy played. When I first started writing on it only a few of the buttons would stick but it eventually stopped working altogether.

Bekah had been the other founding member of our Chicago rap group Chew on This and had just moved out to Los Angeles. I had only written a couple of Bleak End songs so we played mixed sets with half Bleak End and half Chew on This material. I have no idea what we billed it as but the shows were probably too last minute for us to be on fliers anyway. Cole from Deep Jew came along and played a second keyboard.

The detail that fixed the dates for me is that we went to GLOW – a public arts rave on and around the Santa Monica Pier. We weren’t playing this event but we were carrying all of our gear with us and I had one of the bigger keyboards tucked under my arm. Someone yelled out the window of a passing van that I looked like Bob Marley which was a little confusing as I was tall, white, wearing heavy eye makeup, didn’t have dreadlocks and was carrying an instrument I didn’t think he was particularly known for.

I guess it was an example of “out-group homogeneity” – to some people the entire diverse landscape of performed music must seem like the same thing.

I had a friend from the rafts named Jaci who lived down the street from the pier, I’ve written a little bit about her sister Jacki who happens to be in this chapter’s photo, and we stashed all the gear at the apartment she shared with her mom. Then I gave everybody acid which turned out to not be the best idea. Cole and I were old hands with the stuff but the girls were fairly, if not completely, new to it. I probably should have split a single hit between Jaci and Bekah but you live and learn as they say.

The plan was simple: spend the night having fun tripping at the public arts rave and catch a bus toward the Greyhound first thing in the morning to travel on to San Francisco and our next show. The moment the drugs kicked in both Jaci and Bekah freaked out and ran off so me and Cole ended up in damage control mode – too busy tracking them down and making sure they were ok to even notice that we were tripping ourselves. I do faintly remember a tiny bit of light shows and dancing but most of the night was spent searching and worrying.

We found Bekah sitting in the shadows underneath the pier, like among the pylons right when the sand hits the water. She was staring off into space and it took quite a while before she was ready to speak. Finally she offered this small glimpse of her internal world at that moment:

Filas… They’re cool, right?”

I agreed that they were indeed very cool shoes and we spent most of the night on the sand and in the shadows. Carl Cheng’s Santa Monica Art Tool was on display – a giant concrete roller that leaves behind a topographical map of the city in the sand. In function it was quite similar to the cylindrical seals made of lapis lazuli and other precious stones in Ancient Mesopotamia. They rolled across clay envelopes leaving behind decorative scenes that doubled as proof that the contents hadn’t been tampered with.

The night had been planned to coincide with a grunion run and it may have also been a Full Moon. Me and Cole were splashing around in the tide looking for the fish, who seemed to have missed the memo, and he made some kind of joke about the grunions arriving as spectators to see the crowds of oddly dressed people assembled on the beach. The concept set off an avalanche of questions in my head about what it would be like if the participants in any kind of sub-cultural spectacle were outnumbered by the spectators, or even worse if only spectators showed up.

The question only seems to have become more poignant in the intervening years as live shows have become seas of recording phones and cameras and documentation seems to have superseded experience as a primary motivation. It was very much on my mind when I finally made it to the Folsom Street Fair after years of hearing about wanton displays of BDSM-themed role play. It felt like everyone was there to gawk but nobody was there to be the spectacle.

I’ve also seen the other side of this equation being thrown out of balance when I went to SXSW in 2011. Obviously people show up to the festival just to watch bands but for the small shows I was playing it was nothing but artists hoping to be seen and noticed. The way I figured the only point to playing these shows was rolling the dice to see if you would end up forming a relationship with the band that played directly before or after you. Nobody else was going to see you – everybody had booked five or more shows a day and had to leave the moment they could take their gear down.

Just like I said in my first story about The Make-Up I feel like the Underground is most vital when everybody is acting as both participant and spectator and the line between the two isn’t particularly distinct. I’m sure there are places where this still is happening and it makes sense that I’m not immediately privy to them. I’m forty-two years old and I live on a mountain in the middle of nowhere but I still have faith in the youth.

Back to the story: we had found Bekah but we wouldn’t be able to play our next show without our instruments which were at Jaci’s house. We weren’t able to get Jaci on the phone during the night and now it was going direct to voicemail. I found out later that she had thrown her phone away in a momentary paranoid freak out. Google had one of its offices just down the street from her house and she and Jacki had a running joke where they would approach the receptionist with inane requests:

Ahem… Naked pictures of Angelina Jolie please.”

In 2008 the special cars that drove around capturing images for Google Street View were still a common and conspicuous sight, this is when they had the special cameras on the roof that looked like soccer balls. There seemed to always be a lot of them in her section of Santa Monica – maybe the Google offices included a special garage that they were coming and going from. Anyway she was frustrated that none of the calls seemed to be going through and she thought the “Google Gang” was stalking her so she threw her phone into some bushes somewhere.

We didn’t know all of this but we knew we needed our instruments so the only thing to try was walking to her house and seeing if she was there. As we walked away from the Pier a group of cyclists started heckling us for being pedestrians. I tried to argue that walking had roughly the same ecological impact as biking but Cole came up with the following joke:

Oh yeah? Why do you think they call it a carbon footprint?”

Two blocks later we passed the same group loading all of these bikes into a pair of oversized vans. For all of their bluster cycling was evidently only a thing they did to cover the short mile between the party and easy to find parking spaces.

We knocked on Jaci’s door and after startling her mother’s creepy roommate we learned what had happened and were able to retrieve our keyboards. The longer lasting consequence was that Jaci and Jackie’s mother went from thinking I was an excellent chaperone and influence on her daughters to thinking that I was a very bad one who gave them both acid. I did give them both acid at different times. Not that it would matter much – neither Jaci or Jacki would be living with her for very much longer.

We caught the bus toward the Greyhound in accordance with the itinerary I had mapped out to get us to the San Francisco generator show in time to perform. An old wino who was evidently an experienced musician noticed our keyboards and offered this timeless advice:

You can play all the wrong notes. Every note the wrong note. Just play them on time.”